How To Remove A Stripped Differential Drain Plug

IowaGuy [OP] New Member

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I went to change the front diff fluid today and the fill plug was tight simply it came out ok. When I went to remove the drain plug I ended up stripping it. I was using a 10mm hex socket and a breaker bar plus pushing on information technology with my anxiety and it would not budge. Someone at the factory or dealer was happy with a impact gun or a big wrench. The hex socket nevertheless fits but it is pretty much stripped.
I gave up getting the drain plug out so I put the bottle pump hose downward into the fill hole and pumped out about a quart of fluid. I stopped pumping out after a quart because the fluid looked clean a and new. I them pumped in a quart of new fluid until it ran out of the hole and called it good. My truck has currently has 57k miles on it.

I dont use 4x4 a lot at all so I approximate I wont worry about it for quite a few more than miles but at some point information technology will need addressed. And then, any ideas or tips on how to get the bleed plug out? Could it be chiseled loose, drilled through the middle and tapped or something else?
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Consult "the chart."
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IowaGuy [OP] New Member

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Yup, I found that too afterward posting thank you. I gauge this is a mutual problem and chisels, heat and determination are whats needed.
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I took mine to a local shop and asked them to weld a nut to mine, and then intermission information technology loose while it was even so hot. Before doing that I bought a new one from the Toyota dealership. Welding the nut on is the ultimate weapon, so why waste time screwing effectually and getting frustrated?
A quality cold chisel makes quick piece of work of it. Or welding a sacrificial socket on it even quicker.
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Also hitting the head of the bolt with a hammer or brass drift helps stupor the threads loose while compressing the washer, hopefully enough to become it loose

MT Madman and DSLKSL like this.
I but noticed it's not fully stripped even so. I would do as suggested higher up and try tapping it in with a hammer. Or get a sacrificial torx scrap that's a hair larger and hammer that sucker in then it bites into the nut. Or the other suggestions above.
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Once yous get information technology out supercede it with this. A notorious problem. Credit to someone on this site for education me this.

Last edited: Dec 31, 2022
DSLKSL New Member

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Insert a hex flake, smack it with a 5lbs hammer like you to drive it through in one case. Then remove information technology.This type of thread always acts like this on the 1st removal.
yeah i learned e'er go later the bleed plug beginning
y'all will get it though, in easy surface area at least
It's always skilful practise to loosen the fill up plug first. What if he drained the diff and so couldn't become the fill plug free? Would exist a bad day.
oh shit your correct I said it backwards. so yeah nothing done wrong. couple beers this night
IowaGuy [OP] New Fellow member

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Yes I made sure the fill plug came out get-go.
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I welded mine, this was a couple years ago. Worked awesome.
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Air hammer with a chisel flake. Couple taps and it turned for me.
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This is the easiest, nigh reliable, and least frustrating solution.
Your trouble likewise highlights why yous always remove the drain plug last.
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Likewise many, simply not enough....

And then that'southward where my 10mm is....
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IowaGuy [OP] New Fellow member

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Humm, I wonder if a big glob of JB Weld on the hex socket and plug would concur enough to crack information technology loose? Also if I use a chisel should I use a flat cold chisel or a punch type?
I accept the fluid replaced and information technology doesn't need maint. once again for quite a while only at present information technology is just irritating and a challenge to get it loose.
IowaGuy [OP] New Fellow member

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As well the plug looks like aluminum, can it be welded with a normal stick welder or do I need a special setup?
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I did the same matter on my Tacoma. The heat from welding definitely helped.
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Get yourself the 1 on the right next time. Not all one/2" drives are the same lol. A picayune PB blaster and some leverage works wonders.
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I am extremely doubtful the plug is aluminum... similarly doubtful that JB Weld would give the demark needed to suspension it free.